The Ice Flow

By Red Sox Steve

Taj Mahal

Agra is a difficult city to appreciate, even for someone like me, who has only seen a portion of India. Some of Agra's streets are windy and narrow; what little sense of direction I had was lost after a few turns, and as urban areas go, there are many other Indian cities that have more to offer travelers. Agra, though, is a quick 2 hour train ride from Delhi, and is visited by millions each year for one reason: the Taj Mahal.

When I first climbed to the rooftop restaurant of my hotel to view the Taj Mahal the evening I arrived, I couldn't believe it. The sun cast an orange-pink light on the white marble mausoleum and I had to pinch myself - I was only steps away from one of the most beautiful structures in the world. As the sun started to set, the white marble began to adopt a grayish hue. In the foreground, the Darwaza-I-Rauza ("Great Gate"), made of sandstone, stayed a consistent red, its steadiness contrasting with the rapidly changing color of the marble tomb. Tomorrow would be an unforgettable day.

The next morning, I again marveled at the Taj Mahal from the rooftop restaurant as the sun started to cover it like a blanket. I took a few more photos and was off. I was only about a 5 minute walk away from the south entrance, but managed to enter via the west entrance... in other words, I had gotten lost! :) As I approached the west gate, security was tight, but a crowd hadn't yet begun to form. I bought my ticket, moved through the metal detector, had my small bag inspected (no food allowed), received complimentary bottled water, and walked into the Jilaukhana ("forecourt"). Directly ahead was the eastern gate, and off to my right was the south gate, which I had somehow missed.

I started snapping photos right away - the Great Gate was the domineering structure here in the forecourt - let's not kid ourselves though: the view on all sides was pretty amazing. I moved towards the Great Gate and was impressed by the pristine condition of everything in sight. The lawn and shrubbery were neatly trimmed and there was no litter in spite of the constant foot traffic. I could see that passages from the Qur'an were inscribed on the Great Gate, and, typical to many Mughal-era structures, the passageway had high, vaulted ceilings and a symmetrical design framed on the top and upper corners by lookout towers with highly detailed carvings. I hadn't yet made my way to the mausoleum, but was already quite impressed.

Tourists started to stream in through the gates, so I thought it wise to keep moving. I went through the Great Gate, which was the only way to enter the main courtyard, and stopped as soon as I saw the mausoleum. It was unbelievable - shining white marble, with a dome covering the building as tall as the building itself, and four minarets on the corners, each leaning slightly away from the structure (in the event of an earthquake, they would fall away from the mausoleum). There was a series of reflecting pools in the courtyard in addition to neatly trimmed trees which lead the viewer directly to the white marble mausoleum.

As I made my way toward the burial place of Mumtaz Mahal and her husband Shah Jahan (they are actually entombed under the main chamber, buried facing Mecca), I did so slowly. As you can probably imagine, numerous tourists were assuming a variety of poses and angles as they snapped photos of their surroundings, and that's when I was approached. I was doing my best to take photos of the grounds when a guide came up to me; although he spoke little English and I spoke even less Hindi (which is to say none...), he pointed to my camera and indicated he would take photos of me with the Taj Mahal in the background (for a nominal fee, of course). From multiple angles, he shot pictures of the structures around us, the Taj's reflection in the wading pool, and even some photos of me with the perfectly hedged shrubbery in the background. After all this, I was truly pleased at his photos (they were MUCH better than mine). I gave him a tip, and went on my way: it was time to make my way to the mausoleum.

The mausoleum and its mosques are built on a raised foundation, and before heading up to the platform, I had to remove my shoes. First, I made my way to a red sandstone structure on the mausoleum's western side. This building is a mosque, divided into three chambers - a main, central sanctuary with two smaller sanctuaries on each of its sides. The mosque was constructed to resemble another of Shah Jahan's major construction projects: the Jama Masjid 200 km away in Delhi. Each of the three sanctuaries opens to a vaulted ceiling and the roof holds three domes above each chamber.

From here, I was able to see the western side of the mausoleum and across the Yamuna River, where I had seen the Taj Mahal the previous day. On the other side of the riverbed, eager tourists appeared as small as tiny ants. I ascended another set of stairs to approach the mausoleum from the front and could hardly believe I could touch it, lean against it, and photograph it. My eye was drawn to the precision of the inlaid carvings and inscriptions on all sides of the structure. The symmetry, the detailed marble lattice, and the writing bordering the vaulted archways served as reminders of the technical prowess that had been achieved under the Mughal emperors. Shah Jahan didn't leave any doubt: this building was constructed by a powerful emperor.

Tourists were allowed to enter the ground floor of the mausoleum, but inside the dark enclosure, no photos were allowed. A circular fence surrounded the cenotaphs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal. From here, there is only one place to go: off to the right and down a hallway to an exit. Muslim art of complex geometric patterns (these patterns are in Muslim structures all over the Middle East) were found all over the marble walls and ceilings. Carvings of vines, flowers and fruits into the marble covered much of the rest of the interior. I made my way back outside, astonished at the quality of construction and marveling at the carvings and history carried forward by this well-preserved structure.

The last building I saw in the complex is known as the jawab ("answer"), a building which had no religious purpose to its construction, but reiterates the themes of symmetry and balance. The floors of the mosque across the way are meant to accommodate prayer rugs while the jawab's floor isn't. It is similar, however, in that it has high vaulted ceilings, and large domes on its rooftop. It also has highly detailed carvings and patterns typical of Muslim design. To me, when looking at the three buildings simultaneously, there are no obvious differences between the two structures facing the mausoleum.

Before heading out of the main complex, I stopped at the Taj Museum, a relatively minor structure (but still impressive in its architecture and external carvings) at the western edge of the main garden. It is covered in red sandstone, and is smaller than either the mosque or jawab. There is a long reflecting pool leading up to the building, however it was empty when I was there. This tiny museum displayed photos of the rehabilitation of the Taj and its surrounding lawns completed by the British in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

I made my way towards the exit, back through the Main Gate, just as the late-waking throngs were beginning to arrive. It was just before noon, and I could hardly believe the three hours I spent passed so quickly. The Taj Mahal is certainly India's most popular destination, however, like many of the world's magnificent structures, it represents only a single historical era; in that sense, the idea that one man is able to accumulate the resources, both material and human, to construct such a monument is a blend of misdirected ego and hubris in addition to an unparalleled command of technology and construction.

I spent the rest of the afternoon uploading photos to facebook and packing my bag before heading to the train station to board the train for my next destination: Varanasi!

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By Red Sox Steve

Agra

I transfered from a 35 passenger bus to an autorickshaw right in the middle of a busy intersection when I arrived in Agra. When I directed the driver to go to the Taj Mahal, it was only because the south entrance to the 350 year old mausoleum for Mumtaz Mahal was right near my hotel. As we drove through the city, which has an official population of 1.6 million, it was difficult to ignore that this was yet another bustling urban area, with wide busy streets and bumper to bumper traffic. After I checked into my hotel, the morning fog started to clear and I started out on foot. I could see the Taj Mahal from my hotel's rooftop, but thought it wise to get there early the next morning as opposed to rushing through in an afternoon before sunset.

The Taj Mahal is constructed on a north-south axis, facing south, which is how I knew I was heading west when I started from my hotel for some afternoon exploring. Small shops line each side of the street in the vicinity of the south entrance, and the streets are narrow and windy, so it was tough to maintain any sense of orientation as I walked. Bicycle and auto-rickshaws are the main forms of transportation in this part of town, so I hopped on one and directed him to the other major destination in Agra, which predates the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort. As the rickshaw ambled along a busy street, we passed Shah Jahan Park (named for the Mughal emperor who started construction of the Taj Mahal) on the right, and all of a sudden I saw a large, looming structure getting closer. Although I knew I wanted to see Agra Fort, I had no idea that the fort's walls would have a weather-worn reddish hue to them. As we got closer, I could make out more detail, first the structural arrangement of the fort, and then the fine carvings on the outer walls. When we pulled up, my first thought was, "this place is massive!".

After making my way through the usual cadre of hawkers and on to the entrance, I hired a guide (government-approved, recommended by the Lonely Planet, and well worth it), paid my admission fee and made my way in. The architecture and layout of the fort just inside the entrance were the first things I noticed. We had to cross a moat and go up a long alley way to get to the courtyard, but there were still many gates which sub-divided areas and structures inside the fort. We saw a great deal of sandstone even within the fort, as well as marble walls and columns and even an onyx slab used as a bench. The fort even had a battle scar from the Indian Uprising of 1857 (300 years after Emperor Akbar's modifications in 1573) - the British had fired cannonballs into the fort, cracking the black onyx tablet and a marble portico in the process. The interior of the fort was majestic and had been well maintained, which served as a constant reminder of the wealth and influence of the Mughal emperors. They were able to access human and material resources from as far away as the "Far West" (known to Westerners as the "Middle East") to construct the fort.

The one tragic story associated with the Mughals who occupied Agra Fort is that Shah Jahan, grandson of the mighty Akbar, had the Taj Mahal constructed as a tomb for his deceased wife, Mumtaz Mahal. At the end of his life and before his Taj Mahal was completed, Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb, and forced to remain in the luxurious fort (not such a harsh punishment) until his death. Each day, Shah Jahan, accompanied by his favorite daughter, spent time in a part of the fort called Muasamman Burj, a tower which faces the Taj Mahal. From here, he was able to monitor the Taj's construction from a distance until it was completed in 1653.

I still had a few hours of sunlight left after departing the fort, so I wanted to take in as many sights as I could before returning to my hotel. I hopped on a bicycle rickshaw and asked the driver to go to the other Mughal-era mausoleum in town, the burial place of Mirzā Ghiyās Beg, grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal. Officially, the monument, finished in 1628, is called the Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daula ("pillar of the state"); unofficially, many call it the "Baby Taj" due to its much smaller size relative to the Taj Mahal.

There were very few people there when I arrived - like its larger counterpart, architectural symmetry and fine detail govern every bit of its design. The walls of the main mausoleum are made of marble and inlaid with semi-precious stones like jasper and topaz, made into designs like cypress trees and or vases. The garden is perfectly maintained, with trees and flowers neatly placed around the courtyard. The inner walls of the secondary buildings have been worn out over time, however their external walls still maintain the detailed designs first conceived centuries ago.

After a mere 30 minutes, I had ventured to every corner of the monument, snapped sufficient photos and wanted to make one more stop before going back to my hotel: I hopped on the auto-rickshaw and the driver took me to a park along the Yamuna River. From here, I could see a rear view of the Taj Mahal across the dried up riverbed. Although implored (really, pestered) by my driver to go shopping, I decided to return to the hotel, where I could capture some shots of the Taj Mahal from the rooftop as the sun went down. I needed food and some rest because early the next morning, I would take in one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

JSAH Study of an Afghan connection

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By Red Sox Steve

Sawai Madhopur

I boarded the train in Jaipur, and started the weeks long eastward journey that would eventually get me to Kolkata. My first destination after Jaipur was Sawai Madhopur. It is a very small town, so I was hoping things would move a little slower here - I wanted to balance out the chaos of Jaipur and Delhi with a little more peace and quiet. Four weeks in India was a marathon, not a sprint. What also lured me to Sawai Madhopur was the tiger safari.

After a 2 hour train ride, I arrived in Sawai Madhopur, and went to my aptly named hotel: Hotel Tiger Safari. It was just what I needed - quiet, clean rooms, hot water, a nice restaurant and even a swimming pool. As soon as I put my bags in the room, I took a poolside seat, grabbed a Sprite and just said, "ahhh...". Later, I ended up walking down the only street in town to check out the area - I saw a number of hotels and small shops, but that was about it. I took a nap, had dinner, and watched TV before bed, but not before I signed up for the tiger safari which left for Ranthambhore National Park at 6:30 AM the next morning.

When I arrived in Sawai Madhopur, I was battling mid-afternoon heat; when I awoke before sunrise for the safari, the air was surprisingly cool. The open-air canter picked up my group, and as soon as it pulled away I had the wind rushing towards my face and I immediately knew I was underdressed wearing only a pair of shorts and a t-shirt. As we made our way toward the park, we picked up a few more tourists before getting to the park entrance. When we finally arrived, it was clear my fellow tourists with their cameras at the ready, were brimming with excitement. There are safari runs every morning and afternoon, the primary purpose of which is to see a tiger. Although other animals could be spotted along the journey (peacocks, monkeys, birds, deer), it was clear that the potential to see a tiger in its natural environment was the main attraction.

Our vehicle made its way along bumpy roads, and because the surrounding hills blocked the sunlight, it remained chilly. I had to keep my eyes open to see wildlife but my head down to avoid getting the occasional tree branch in the face, and I was freezing my ass off... I was not in the best mood. Because we hadn't seen any tigers, and the vehicle even broke down once, the groans, sighs and expressions on the people around me evidenced a creeping sense of despair that was eroding our collective optimism.

The sun started to come over the hills, we began to see some animals, and everyone's mood started to improve. We passed a watering hole for crocodiles, but weren't lucky enough to spot one. We briefly rested at the midpoint of our journey, and now the canter was headed out of the park. We had taken so many twists and turns, my sense of distances and direction became irrelevant. We spotted a number of lively monkeys and exotic birds, but had yet to see the animal that has been going extinct for decades, a Royal Bengali Tiger. All of a sudden, as the canter was meandering along the rustic road, our guide nervously tapped the driver on the shoulder and pointed into the brush. The vehicle stopped suddenly, and everyone shot out of their seats. About 40 yards from the road, there was a tiger prowling in the jungle! It was a baby male tiger, and he was examining us as intently as we were photographing him. For a few brief steps, it was moving parallel to the road, cautious to avoid us, but not lose sight of us. Instinct and adrenaline fueled subject and viewer - everyone in the group looked directly at the elegant beast as he tried to determine if we were friend, foe, or food.

Everyone grew silent as cameras were powered on and pointed at the powerful creature staring us down. The tiger started toward our vehicle, but still seemed to be a "safe" distance away, at least according to my naive estimations. The guide informed us that this was a baby male, which was more rare than a female AND extremely shy; although from where I was sitting he had NO problem with eye contact! He seemed to want to avoid us and so he crossed the road, avoiding interaction with our group while doing so. Because another safari group pulled up behind us, the tiger passed in front of our vehicle - he was about 10-15 feet from our headlights, when any perspective on diminutive dimension quickly changed. Our "baby" tiger walked slowly across the road while his paparazzi couldn't seem to take enough pictures!

He never changed pace and only slightly altered his direction while he moved. The brush he encountered on the other side of the road was much thicker - soon, because of his deliberate and powerful movements, we could hear the crackling of the bushes, but had lost sight of this striped mammoth. Within a few moments, he appeared, and was steadily moving away from our group. Final pictures and movies were taken, and after a few deep breaths, there was a feeling of exhilaration amongst us all. Ultimately, we were not in any danger, and, after the multiple unsuccessful attempts by some, everyone was pleased we saw what we came for. There is a campaign in India to save the tigers, part of which reminds people there are only about 1400 tigers left in the entire country. We were fortunate to see the rarest of rare species: a baby male Bengali Tiger.

We continued our journey out of the park, and spotted numerous monkeys, deer and India's national bird, the peacock, along the way. My body temperature warmed to normal, and the bone-chilling wind I felt early in the morning had become a cooling breeze while the late morning sun warmed me up. I made two friends on the trip as well, and we would all meet up later to talk about the tiger sighting and take an afternoon journey to the 1,000 year old Ranthambore Fort nearby.

On the afternoon trip to Ranthambore Fort, I got to know Jeff and Jaya, friends who were traveling together and staying at my hotel. There wasn't any signage at the fort, so we weren't able to grasp much of its significance with respect to its ancient history. When we finally got to the top (a winding ascent along a stone path punctuated by large intimidating gates with palatial structures and open grass courtyards at the top), we entered one of the three Hindu temples, and received a blessing from Ganesh, the Hindu god and protector of intellect and wisdom.

In our steps leading to the temple's entrance, we saw a long pathway outlined by a set of parallel bars, which is where a few million worshipers wait in line to receive Ganesh's blessing on an annual Hindu holiday. There was no line, so all we had to do was remove our shoes, enter the temple (no photos allowed), receive the blessing along with a spot of dye on our foreheads and a string bracelet, and provide a small donation before leaving. I was intimidated at first - I didn't want to offend any Hindus by falsely representing myself as someone worthy of a blessing from a religion I didn't believe in, and I didn't want to inadvertently disobey any of their customs. Luckily, neither happened, and after a 15 minute descent to the parking lot, the wind was again blowing in our hair as we returned to the hotel in time for dinner.

The next morning, I would board the train for Bharatpur.

Bharatpur

Sawai Madhopur was quiet and peaceful and Bharatpur was more of the same. Bharatpur, Sawai Madhopur, Jaipur... they all have the same "-pur" suffix. If you are an amateur etymologist like me, you start wondering about the meaning of that suffix. On my trip, I found out it is the Hindu word for city. Jaipur was founded by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh in the 18th century, Sawai Madhopur was built by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh I, who came from Jaipur, and Bharatpur was named after Bharata, a brother of Lord Rama (the legendary and mythological king of Ayodhya). Rajasthan, a state formed in 1949 after independence, had been sub-divided into "princely states" ruled by Rajputs, one of the warrior tribes of India. The Rajput ruled states first coalesced under the Mughal emperors in the 16th century, then under the British in the colonial era that followed.

The trip from Sawai Madhopur to Bharatpur was short - after a couple of hours I was there. I hopped in an autorickshaw (think of a go-cart with a roof, powered by "CNG"... Compressed Natural Gas) and we made our way to my hotel, which was just a short walk to one of the major tourist sites of India: The Keoladeo National Park. The park is a bird reserve, with jackals, snakes, ants and even cattle milling about. The birds there were numerous, moved quickly and were spotted from a distance - I came across species like the Ruddy Shelled Duck, White-Throated Kingfisher, Cattle Egret, Rose-ringed parakeet, Spot-billed Duck, and Red-Wattled Lapwing. Some species migrate from as far away as Siberia and through the Himalayas to reach central India.

With my guide, I spent over three hours wandering through the park. I remember seeing owls, ducks, turtles and a wide variety of birds. At the end of a long road, we came upon a large display - on it were hunting records dating back a number of decades. Keoladeo didn't become a protected wildlife sanctuary until Indira Gandhi, daughter of Nehru (NOT Gandhi) was in power in 1971. Prior to 1971, for centuries, it was a reliable hunting ground for both Indian maharajas and the British ruling class. Because the sanctuary contains the confluence of two rivers, local farmers have also used it as a grazing area until 1982. Today, because so many endangered avian species make it their home, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After relaxing in this peaceful town, it was time to plan my escape. Very easy since there was a bus stop a short walk from my hotel - My next city has one of the most amazing and well-known tourist sites in the entire world... After a 2 hour ride I stepped out and jumped into an auto-rickshaw. It didn't matter if the driver spoke English or Hindi because I only had to direct him with two words: "Taj Mahal".

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By Red Sox Steve

It was an innocent enough question. I have been on airplanes many times before, and even longer flights - it's simple: I turn on the iPod, keep food and water consumption at a minimum to avoid frequent trips to the bathroom, allow my mind to drift away from the "armrest war" going on with the stranger next to me, and next thing you know, I'm there. But it was this one question that sent a jolt into the deepest part of my brain, and made me ask myself, after all the planning, all the reading, all the presentations and hours of documentaries and evenings spent talking to my Bangalorean roommate, what I had gotten into.

The flight attendant was dutifully going down the aisle with a cart full of food and drinks, looked me straight in the eye and said, "Western bread or Indian bread?" That was the first time I knew I was as geographically and culturally far from home as I had ever been in my life. That and the map on the tiny screen in the seatback in front of me that indicated the plane was moving east from Amsterdam, across Kazakhstan and Afghanistan, and we still had about 2 hours to go. I was on my way to India for the first time in my life.

I'm probably going to mention the Lonely Planet Guide about 1,000 times as I tell the story of my time in India - but that isn't nearly as many times as I opened it during my month there. I might also mention how heavy my backpack was - I squeezed everything I thought I needed into a single pack, and was still able to carry on. :)

We arrived at Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi at around midnight. After filling out the appropriate forms and showing the customs officer my passport and visa (don't leave home without it!), I went straight to the waiting area. My flight was full and there were about three times as many folks waiting at the airport for friends, relatives, colleagues or assigned pick-ups as passengers. My taxi driver, Abdul, was there waiting for me: "Mr. Steve" his sign read. I greeted him, went to the ATM and hoped Bank of America listened when I told them I'd be using my card in India for the month. The familiar sound of the ATM working normally meant I was about to hold Indian Rupees for the first time... no need for dollars for about 4 weeks.

On the drive from the airport to the hostel, I got to know Abdul - we chatted a little about politics, economics, India, America, New York, the weather, families, and work. He's greeted tourists before, which was evident from his broadly-based and descriptive introduction to the city and the country. From the airport, the drive to Connaught Place in Delhi where I was staying was about 40 minutes. It was late at night, so there was very little traffic. Leaving the airport, though, I was immediately able to learn something about India: there is a multi-lane highway that gets people from the airport to the city; however, a huge construction project is taking place to build a high-speed train system along the same route. Later this year, the Commonwealth Games are coming to Delhi, so the municipal government hopes to have this project completed by then. After about 21 hours of travel, I arrived at my hostel in Connaught Place, with plans to see Delhi starting after a good night's sleep.

Delhi

I got to Delhi late at night on a Wednesday, and spent three full days in the city. It's a massive city containing about 14 million people, divided into a few major sections - two of the most prominent being Old Delhi and New Delhi. Connaught Place is in New Delhi and is a highly commercialized area with a Pizza Hut, Mercedes dealership, and Sony store within walking distance of my hostel. It's actually a large outdoor shopping mall with concentric circles of stores surrounding a central park which also has its own underground stop on the Delhi metro.

I had consulted my Lonely Planet about what to do and where to go long before I left New York, but still felt overwhelmed by the choices available to me. I wanted to be a tourist, but being a 6 year resident of Manhattan and remembering the mixed feelings I have about tourists visiting my hometown, I also wanted to make sure I spent as much time learning about the city and its inhabitants as I did taking in all the major sites. Because the city was so large and densely populated, I knew I wouldn't see everything I wanted. The next few days were tough - I was adjusting to the climate and time change (+10.5 hours from NY time), taking my meds (doxycycline, every day, with food & I had ciprofloxacin... just in case), and I had to find some relatively non-spicy meals that didn't make me sick. I had to take it slow while the experience of adjusting to India overwhelmed all my senses.

On my first day, I spent time in Old Delhi, taking in Mughal-era (1526-1850) structures. I saw India's largest mosque, the Jama Masjid, and a fort across the street, simply called the Red Fort. The mosque is well secured due to the long history of conflict and terrorism throughout the sub-continent, and it is surrounded by markets selling everything from chai to clothing, auto and bicycle rickshaw drivers waiting to pick up tourists, and beggars seeking handouts from the easily spotted foreigners who spend time in the area. The mosque is open to tourists most days, but closes at noon on Friday to accommodate worshipers - the area inside the mosque's walls are so massive, it is thought that 25,000 worshipers can occupy the grounds at one time. Right across the street stands the Red Fort, which housed the royal family of India for about two centuries. Every year on Indian Independence Day, the Prime Minister raises the Indian flag on one of the fort's main gates. The Red Fort and the Jama Masjid were both built by Shah Jahan, a Mughal emperor who ruled during the 17th century.

Over the next couple of days, I visited Raj Ghat, where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated and is memorialized, the Gandhi museum, which describes his life and achievements in pretty good detail, and some parks, tombs, and monuments around Delhi: Lodhi Gardens, Humayun's Tomb and India Gate. Lodhi Gardens and Humayun's Tomb both contain mausoleums for Mughal-era rulers and their families. The different sites serve as a reminder of the layers of history that have swept across northern India for the last half-millennia. Because of limited time and my desire to see other parts of the country, I missed a number of sites as well: Qutb Minar, the largest minaret in the world, the Lotus Temple, a B'hai house of worship, and the Akshardham Temple, a Hindu temple finished in 2005. After spending three days in Delhi, I felt that the trip hadn't started - I was only beginning to get physically adjusted; my curiousity about less well-known parts of the country was yet to be satisfied.

On Sunday morning, I left for Jaipur. The distance to Jaipur from Delhi was about 270km along a main highway, and the trip took about 6 hours due to traffic and stopping (I should have taken the train :) ). As my journey took me through Rajasthan, I noticed the changes in landscape. Much of northern, interior, India is very flat which helps explain why around half its population works in agriculture. During the journey, I also came upon both smaller towns and large industrial developments. In some places close to Delhi, there were construction sites where both commercial and residential properties were being built, reminiscent of a western/suburban development model. As we got closer to Jaipur, however, the landscape started to become more mountainous.

Jaipur

As we approached Jaipur, the first thing I noticed was the number of marble craftsmen along the side of the road. Marble has been a prominent industry in Jaipur for centuries - Rajasthani marble was even used in the construction of the Taj Mahal. The state of Rajasthan is very rich in natural resources, with companies mining things like zinc, copper and even sandstone. Before arriving at my hotel, I decided to take in two of the most important Mughal-era sites in the area: Jantar Mantar and City Palace. Jantar Mantar is an 18th century collection of large-scale astronomical devices. The ability of these tools to tell the time and date, and even incorporate the zodiac calendar with up to the minute accuracy nearly three centuries later, is a testament to their quality and indicates how advanced the Mughals of that era were. City Palace is just that - an 18th century Mughal-era complex built to house the king ("maharaja") and his family, as well as receive dignitaries and provide security in times of war.

After spending a couple of hours, snapping a ton of photos (I loved the accuracy of the sundials at Jantar Mantar - adjusted for their location with respect to Jaipur's distance from the equator) and hopping on an auto rickshaw, I made my way to my hotel, which was in one of the busiest parts of Jaipur. Because it was a planned city before it became inhabited centuries ago, Jaipur has a number of gates around the oldest parts of the city - these were incorporated into Jaipur's design in order to put Hindu architectural theory to use: the idea being that a plan using geometric concepts would increase a city's prosperity and the comfort of its inhabitants (later incorporated into many cities around the world). Furthermore, Jaipur is known as the "Pink City", because of a tribute the Mughal rulers made to the Prince of Wales on his visit in 1853 - they painted the entire city pink in anticipation of his visit.

On my only full day in Jaipur, I made sure to wake early: I was going to hop on a bus that would take me from the rotary near my hotel (just in front of a mosque called Hawa Mahal) to Amber Fort in the next town. My Lonely Planet was right: the buses left every few minutes, cost less than 10 rupees and got me there pretty quickly! Because it was early in the morning, I was on the bus with mostly school children and people going to work. It was crowded so I didn't mind standing. One of the students among this group on the bus had her electrical engineering text out and was reading it intently as the bus ambled along the bumpy road. Even though I was in Jaipur to see things that dominate the city's past, this place has a present and future as well. Some of the world's largest companies are represented in this city of 4 million: Infosys, Tata, Wipro, and Deutsche Bank to name a few.

After about a 30 minute ride, we approached Amber Fort. As soon as I saw the fort, I jumped off the bus. I entered an open gate into a courtyard, and could see the fort at the top of the hill. I started snapping pictures - the sun had yet to come over the surrounding hills, but because no one else was around, I managed to take some pretty good photos. I made my way towards the main path, which is where I started seeing tourists... riding up to the fort on the backs of elephants. I got lucky because I got off the bus a little early... I avoided the fort's main entrance where the elephants (and their "processed" meals) congregated: it stunk something fierce!

Making my way into the fort after climbing a windy path, I was able to see the different parts of this amazing structure. Amber Fort was built in 1592 and modified over the next 150 years to satisfy the desires of successive rulers. It sits high atop a hill in Amber (just 11km from Jaipur) and from here, one can see far into the distance in each direction. The main road leading up to the fort is surrounded by hills on both sides, and is where main commerce and transportation routes exist even today. The town of Amber itself is very small: centuries ago, the maharaja moved all inhabitants to Jaipur, the planned city a short distance to the south.

After taking in Amber Fort and walking around Amber, I hopped on the bus and returned to Jaipur. I spent an overcast afternoon in Jaipur, beyond the gated section of the city. The distinctive pink color adorning buildings in the gated section did not carry over to the more industrialized and populated areas of the city. The place, similar to Delhi, was teeming with activity, but, being a few days into my journey, my adrenaline had worn off: I went back to my hotel, had a brief meal, and fell asleep.

Tomorrow, I would board the train for Ranthambore.

Posted by Red Sox Steve at 01:47 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)